1. Focus lock
We’ve all been in the situation when we know what we to focus on but, for whatever reason, our cameras have another idea. Maybe other subjects around or in front of the intended one are distracting it, or the camera keeps losing focus on account of the subject being too featureless or low in contrast for it to always be noticed.
Or perhaps we’re shooting through a window and the camera keeps focusing on the window itself rather than what’s visible through it.
Your camera’s focus lock feature is a fast way to ensure the camera stays locked on the subject of your choice.
Once the camera has found focus, pressing the relevant button will temporarily disable the focusing system so that you the camera literally stays focused on what you want, leaving you free to slightly recompose the image and know it won’t get distracted.
This technique also helps when a focusing point does not cover the subject after you’ve recomposed the image. You could, of course, simply use manual focus to get around any issues with the autofocusing system, although this way you retain both the speed and accuracy of autofocus..
2. Back-button focusing
Most of us understand the idea of a camera concentrating on a subject with a half press from the shutter-release button and capturing the image once the button is fully pushed down. This is perfectly suitable more often than not, although focusing using another control can be beneficial in certain situations.
On Nikon and Cannon cameras the button that does this really is marked AF-ON, although some Nikon models that lack this could have the feature assigned towards the AE-L/AF-L button.
By disengaging focus in the shutter-release button, you can focus ahead of time and know that the actual camera won’t hunt around with regards to the critical moment associated with capture.
This is particularly useful whenever you’re in times when something may be getting around the subject, which could cause the autofocus system in order to refocus.
It also means you are able to focus and recompose along with greater ease and also enables you to subsequently override the AF program with manual focus if you think you need to, using the knowledge that pressing the actual shutter-release button won’t trigger your camera to redouble.
3. AI Concentrate / AF-A
Most people understand the separate focusing settings for still and shifting subjects. Canon’s DSLRs, for instance, have long offered 1 Shot and AI Servo configurations, while Nikon and Pentax versions offer AF-S (single) as well as AF-C (continuous) options.
You might have noticed, however, that some camera provide a third option is frequently included alongside these, labeled AI Concentrate on Canon DSLRs and AF-A upon Pentax DSLRs. So what do these do so when might you use all of them?
These options automatically switch between your two primary options as so when a camera deems this necessary. So, if you’re concentrating on a subject and it starts to maneuver, this option will notice this and can attempt to keep an eye on its movement.
This is useful when capturing any type of subjects that are vulnerable to unpredictable movement, such because children or pets, or even when focusing for a passing fancy person in a crowd or within the distance.
4. Disabling the actual AF assist lamp
Many cameras possess a small lamp on their own front that sometimes springs alive to illuminate a topic, and its purpose would be to help out the camera’s autofocus program, particularly in darker problems.
This can be helpful when capturing inanimate topics, although there may be instances when it’s not welcome, such as in locations of worship or every other occasion where you have to be discreet.
Fortunately, you can disable this with the camera’s menu system. While this will obviously have an effect on your camera’s capability to focus in low gentle, it will help you to definitely stay discreet if you want to.
5. AF Microadjustment
Digital cameras and lenses are put together with great precision, but they are made to fit within a certain degree of tolerances. This, together using the general bumps and scratches that equipment encounters via use, means that different combos of camera and lens can provide different results with regards to focusing.
It’s no question, then, that many manufacturers have provided the possibility to tailor how a lens performs on the particular body within the last few generation of their own cameras.
These adjustments, which permit you to very slightly adjust focus if you discover the camera is regularly focusing a little before or behind where it will, don’t physically affect the actual lens itself, rather they happen in camera in support of apply when that type of lens is used (unless you decide to apply it globally for those lens, which some cameras permit you to do).
Many lenses should end up being fine and it’s feasible that you won’t have the ability to improve on this, if your camera offers this and also you do attempt it, ensure that you follow the instructions in your manual to find the best results.
6. Touch focus
If your camera includes a touchscreen it’s very likely that it will help you to focus on a subject by simply keying it on the actual LCD screen. This is excellent when the subject is specially small or at the peripheries from the frame, although it’s also great for any type of tripod-based work where you might be using the LCD screen rather than the viewfinder with regards to composition.
It may also be possible to mix this with the choice to trigger the exposure, which could speed up your capturing..
7. Focus peaking
An element on many CSCs plus some compacts, but also beginning to make an appearance upon DSLRs, focus peaking gives a much clearer idea of whenever your subject is in focus while using the manual-focus mode.
Here’s exactly how it works: as a person adjust your focus by hand, highlights start to show over areas which are in focus.
The more in focus a topic is the more covered it's in highlights, and when you’ve reached the most over the desired area you realize you’ve reached the best position. This option is ideal for tripod-based work, where you are able to adjust this with greatest precision.
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